Porto Frailis Beach in Arbatax: A Guide to Ogliastra's Cove

Porto Frailis beach boasts fine, silvery-gold sand that glitters in the morning light. The water is transparent, azure, and shimmering with a thousand different colours. Its shallow seabed is perfect for everyone, while scattered pebbles add to the beauty of the scenery. Surrounded and seemingly protected by Mediterranean scrub, this is a cove you simply must visit if you are holidaying in Ogliastra. What beach are we talking about? Located south of Capo Bellavista and watched over by the Tower of San Gemiliano, there is a cove that, sheltered from the wind and nestled between granite rocks, reveals all its beauty along its 200-metre stretch: Porto Frailis beach.

From Cagliari, take the SS125 var, known as the Nuova Orientale Sarda, and follow the signs for Tortolì. From Olbia, you can reach the town by taking the SS131 Dir followed by the SS289 Var del Correboi. Once in Tortolì, follow the signs for Arbatax. After turning onto Viale Europa, which you'll find by going straight on at the roadman's house (at kilometre marker 149 of the SS 125), keep right until you reach the car parks opposite the beach. From there, it's just a short walk to your destination, perfect for carrying your beach gear without a long trek.

There are many beautiful places that can be easily reached from Porto Frailis. Nearby, in the heart of the town of Arbatax, are the Rocce Rosse (Red Rocks). This stunning cathedral of red porphyry, set against a backdrop of evocatively coloured pebbles and rocks, is one of the most famous sights in Ogliastra. Cala Moresca is also very beautiful. The cove, known for its shallow, child-friendly seabed – ideal for non-swimmers too – and for its transparent water, is also a favourite spot for spearfishing enthusiasts. The great variety of colourful fish and the presence of starfish also make it a popular choice for diving. Also very close is the beautiful Lido di Orrì, particularly well-known for its stunning scenery.

Easily reached by car, the beach is also accessible for people with disabilities. You can hire all the beach equipment you need for a relaxing day in the sun: sunbeds, umbrellas, as well as pedalos, jet skis, and canoes. Its location right in the town centre means you have quick and easy access to various venues, including nightlife spots, bars, restaurants, and food stands. A tobacconist and a newsagent are also available nearby.

The Tower of San Gemiliano

Standing 43 metres above sea level, seeming to watch over the Bay of Porto Frailis, the Tower of San Gemiliano is one of the structures that, from the High Middle Ages onwards, were used as tools for surveillance, lookout, or communication along the island's eastern coast. It was primarily built as a defence against pirates, allowing them to be spotted well in advance, thanks to its 25-kilometre view out to sea. From here, it is possible to see the Torre di Barì to the south and the Bellavista tower to the north-east. It only took on its current name in 1767; before that, it was known as Torre di Taratasciar – Arabic for "thirteenth tower" – and Torre di Zacurru.